Joie de Vivre: The Art of Winter Living in Megève
A hidden gem in the Savoie alps - ski adventures, a lively après-ski scene, Savoyard traditions and more
Nestled in the French Alps, Megève is a winter wonderland ski resort with its snow-dusted chalets, horse-drawn carriages, cobblestone streets, old churches, boutique & designer stores, and enough gourmet restaurants to justify stretchy pants and a few extra pounds hiding beneath a baggy sweater. Fun fact: Megève’s history dates back to the 13th century, when it was founded by Benedictine monks. In the 1920s, the Rothschild family reimagined it into a French alternative to St. Moritz.
Ready to explore? Here’s the scoop on how to get there, what to explore, where to stay, and the must spots to eat.
Getting to Megève
We flew into Geneva and opted for a private transfer to Megève, which is about an hour and half away. If you’re looking for alternative options, renting a car is a decent choice, as the roads are relatively wide and not too winding - plus there is a Europcar in Megève where you can drop off your rental. Alternatively, you can book with Alpybus. They operate on set schedules, so it’s worth emailing them ahead of time to check if their timetable aligns with your flight.
While we would have gone with Alpybus, our incoming flight didn’t quite match up with their schedule. However, we did use them on our return to Geneva, and the experience was seamless (got picked up at the Megève bus station) – plus, it was half the price of our private transfer.
What to Explore:
We visited Megève at the start of the ski season (late-December). While the resort had just opened, we were able to enjoy the slopes, though by the end of our five-day trip, the conditions had turned icy, making skiing a bit more challenging…let’s just say we had a few ungraceful face plants along the way. After chatting with locals, we learned that the best skiing conditions here are typically in late January and February, when the snow is more reliable and less likely to send you hurling face-first into the snow – honestly, it’s a small miracle we left relatively unscathed. We chose Megève because it met our beginner to intermediate needs – with 43 green slopes, 65 blue slopes, and of course an active après-ski scene.
During our off-ski hours, we explored the quaint churches of Megève, strolled through the shops in town, dined at the many restaurants available, and indulged in some much-needed R&R at our hotel’s spa. If you're visiting on a Friday, be sure to check out the local farmer’s market, where you can sample fresh, seasonal produce from the region.
Where to Stay:
Coeur de Megève – located in the heart of Megève, this hotel is a short walk from the town’s shops, restaurants, and the Téléphérique to Rochebrune ski slopes. In addition to its prime location, the hotel boasts Beefbar on-site, a bar and lounge for drinks, and a small spa offering massages with a private sauna room.
Les Fermes de Marie – a luxurious chalet, Les Fermes de Marie feels like staying in the home of a close friend. Its French decor exudes warmth and charm, creating a cozy and welcoming environment. The property features a spacious spa with a pool as well as multiple restaurants on site. The Traditional Restaurant is a must try (more on that below). While not located in the heart of the town center, it’s still within a pleasant walking distance.
Other notable callouts: Hotel Lodge Park Megève, Hotel Mont Blanc Megève
Where to Eat:
Après-ski:
Idéal 1850 – located on Mont d’Arbois, Idéal 1850 offers a view of Mont Blanc and a refined atmosphere designed by Giorgio Armani. Accessible by both skiing and on foot, it’s a destination that combines elegance with a relaxed vibe. The food here is exceptional, and the burger on the menu is an absolute must-try.
Chalet Sauvage – also located on Mont d’Arbois, Chalet Sauvage offers the ultimate après-ski scene with its chic white fur seating, lively music, and a predominantly European crowd. The food is top-notch, crafted by Eric Fouchlon (the same chef as La Ferme St. Amour). We indulged in the Mont d’Or (because who can resist melted cheese?) and the Cod, both of which are delicious. For the full experience, be sure to book the 2PM seating – it's when the restaurant transforms into a full-on party.
Super Megève – located on Rochebrone and also accessible by ski and on foot, Super Megève offers a laid-back lunch scene, setting itself apart from the other spots, with its unique barbeque grill featuring a selection of meats and cuts. If you visit, don’t miss out on the BBQ options.
Other notable callouts: La Folie Douce, Chalet Lupo
Dinner:
La Ferme St. Amour – it might be a bold statement, but La Ferme St. Amour was my favorite restaurant in Megève. From the chic chalet decor to the live music, impeccable service, and outstanding food, this place hit every note. For an even livelier atmosphere, go for the second seating around 9pm – it’s when the vibe truly turns into a party. We indulged in the tuna tartare, fondue, and beef fillet, and I’ll be ordering the exact same thing on my next visit (because I will be back).
The Traditional Restaurant – located in Les Fermes de Marie, The Traditional Restaurant is a celebration of Savoyard culture, from its authentic interior to the dishes available on its menu. The ambiance immerses you in the region’s alpine charm, and the food truly captures the essence of the local cuisine. We savored the roast chicken with tartiflette and couldn’t resist the dessert buffet. If you’re looking to experience genuine local flavors, make sure to add this restaurant to your list.
Kinugawa – an elegant Japanese restaurant that offered a refreshing break from our usual indulgence of bread, cheese, and potatoes. We ordered the seaweed and cucumber salad, seabass ceviche, and a sushi platter.
Other notable callouts: Le Piaf, Casa Papas, Il Bambini
Final Thoughts:
Megève is one of a kind - we spent four full days here, which felt just right for us. If you’re searching for a charming alpine town with top-notch restaurants, skiing for beginner to intermediate levels, a vibrant après-ski scene, and a resort that is a reasonable distance from a major airport – then this is the place for you! For those planning to ski – I’d suggest visiting in late January or February when the slopes are at their best. That said, Megève is a beloved ski destination, so expect it to be busy - embrace the local charm and pack a little patience when it comes to service. And one final tip: whether it’s hotels or restaurants, planning ahead is key.
