Canadian Rockies: Banff & Lake Louise
We recently ventured to this alpine beauty to celebrate my dad’s 70th birthday. This trip was the perfect blend of unwinding at cozy resorts, engaging in outdoor adventures, indulging in meals that justified every calorie burned (or at least that’s what I told myself), and more photo ops than my iPhone could handle.
From the best places to stay and eat to the must-see spots that you shouldn’t miss, follow me for tips that will hopefully inspire you to make the most out of your Canadian Rockies adventure.
Getting to Banff:
When to Visit: We visited Banff during the shoulder seasons (late September to early October) which, like any good travel season, came with its pros and cons. Pros: fewer tourists, more wallet-friendly prices, fall-foliage, and the rare chance to enjoy both summer and winter activities - think paddling on turquoise lakes by day and chasing northern lights by night. Cons: bundle-up! Pro-tip: I wouldn't recommend stretching the shoulder season much beyond our dates, as some key activities, like visiting Lake Moraine, may close once the summer season officially ends, leaving you with fewer options to fully enjoy the area.
Getting There: Getting to Banff is pretty straightforward: fly into Calgary, rent a car, and enjoy the 1.5-hour drive north (or longer if you’re like us and keep pulling over for “just one more photo”). We flew in from Newark, but Calgary also connects directly to a number of U.S. cities, including Los Angeles, San Francisco, Chicago, Dallas, Houston, Seattle, and more.
How Long to Stay: Our trip was officially six days, though it included four full days to explore and two dedicated to travel. We divided our full four-day journey between staying in Banff (2 days) and Lake Louise (2 days), which gave us enough time to experience the highlights. That said, it’s easy to extend your stay, especially if you’re eager to tackle more hiking trails or venture further north to Jasper. A quick note: the beautiful area of Jasper was affected by wildfires this year (2024) so it’s worth checking current conditions to see if the town and parks are open before planning your visit there.
Where to Stay:
Here are some top picks of where to stay in or near Banff:
Fairmont Banff Springs: Nestled in Banff National Park, this “Castle in the Rockies” has been welcoming guests since 1888 and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. With it’s timeless old-world glamour interior, the hotel offers extensive amenities that range from a 27-hole golf course, an award-winning spa, and a range of world-class restaurants.
Moose Suites & Lodges: Situated in the heart of Banff, this charming property blends the feel of a cozy Mountain Cabin with modern comforts. Guests can unwind at the rooftop spa and pool or can take advantage of the property’s unbeatable location - just a short walk from Banff’s bustling downtown restaurants, shops, and attractions.
The Post Inn & Spa: Located in the village of Lake Louise, this luxurious hotel combines rustic charm with refined elegance, offering warm, inviting rooms and suites - many featuring private balconies with stunning mountain views. Guests can also indulge in daily complimentary tea-time, unwind at the full-service spa, or take a dip in the pool after a day of exploration. With world-class dining options on-site, it’s the perfect place to relax and recharge.
Pro-tip: make sure to book your accommodation early for availability and to lock-in the best price!
Where to Eat:
Overall, I was blown away by Banff’s culinary scene - the fresh, savory ingredients, exceptional quality, and farm-to-table experiences left me wanting more. Here are some of our favorites spots:
Lupo - this lively Italian spot is in downtown Banff and celebrated for their homemade pastas. Portions are generous, so come hungry! We shared a spread that included the Caprese, Spicy Rigatoni Alla Vodka, Mafaldine al Limone, Pesto Campanelle, and Crunchy Truffle Tuscan Fries. While everything was delicious, the standouts for us were the Spicy Rigatoni Alla Vodka and Malfaldine al Limone.
The Bison - this vibrant, farm to table gem sources local ingredients that are clear in every bite. I especially enjoyed being seated upstairs, where I practically had front-row seats of the chefs creating each dish in the open kitchen. While everything we tasted was exceptional, the Wild Mushroom Gnocchi and Arctic Char stood out as clear favorites.
The Vermillion Room at Fairmont Hotel - with an old-school brasserie ambiance, this restaurant is one of many within the Banff Springs Hotel. Since we were in the mood for steak (I’m not quite ready to embrace bison yet), we made a reservation, and it did not disappoint. The French Onion Soup, Steak Frites Au Poivre, and Le Cheeseburger were mouthwatering, and left us happily rolling out of there by the end of the meal. Pro-tip: check out The Rundle Bar at the Banff Springs for a night-cap.
The Dining Room at The Post Hotel - this restaurant feels like you’re dining at a elegant, alpine lodge in Europe and was my favorite meal of the trip, which admittedly, is a bit of a splurge. Diners can choose between a four-course prix fixe menu or, if you’re staying at the hotel, you can also opt in for à la carte selections. The menu changes regularly, but honestly, you can’t go wrong with any choice. Pro-tip: grab a pre or post dinner drink at The Norman Lounge.
What to Explore:
First things first, make sure to purchase the Banff National Park pass - I recommend printing it out, as you’ll need it for your car.
Here’s how we structured our four full days:
Day 1
On our first full day, we wandered through the charming town of Banff which is lined up with restaurants, coffee shops, artisanal bakeries, local boutiques, and art galleries. It’s the kind of place where you could spend at least an hour (or more). Of course, we couldn’t resist stopping by Rocky Mountain Chocolate Banff, where we went all in on the treats to satisfy our sweet tooth.
Next, we hopped on the local bus to the Banff Gondola, which took us to the summit of Sulphur Mountain. Once at the top, the alpine was ours to explore with multiple vantage points of breathtaking, panoramic views of the town of Banff and the Rockies mountain range. In true adventurous spirit, my dad decided to embark on his own impromptu trek—without bothering to inform the rest of us. With no cell signal, we quickly found ourselves in a classic game of Where’s Dad? Pro-tip: check the weather app for a clear day, and make sure to book the local bus and Gondola tickets with your hotel in advance.
To cap off the day, we drove to the “Surprise Corner Viewpoint” for the iconic shot of the “Castles in the Rockies.” While it’s a popular hiking destination, after the extra steps we incurred during our dad-hunting escapade, we opted for a scenic drive instead. Sometimes, avoiding a second search party is the real win.
Day 2
On our second day, we set out early for Lake Moraine, and let me tell you - it was the highlight of the trip. The crystal-clear, turquoise waters framed by snowy mountains and dense alpine forests left us speechless (and, for once, not just because we were out of breath). We spent about two hours strolling along the lake trail, climbing the famous rock pile, and just soaking it all in. Additional trails were available, but unfortunately, the weather had other plans and they were closed. Pro-tip: Lake Moraine is only accessible via shuttles, so book your spot in advance (we used Moraine Lake Bus Company). Even if you’re typically not a morning person, it’s worth arriving early to beat the crowds and have the place mostly to yourselves.
After the shuttle dropped us back, we headed towards Emerald Lake. The drive itself was worthwhile, especially during the vibrant fall foliage. While Emerald Lake was undeniably beautiful, it didn’t quite compare to Lake Moraine in our opinion. I’d say it’s a “nice-to-have” rather than a “must-see” if you’re short on time. But if you do go, it’s a lovely spot for some less-crowded moments.
On our way back, we decided to take The Bow Valley Parkway, a quieter and more scenic alternative to the Trans-Canada Highway, that begins near Lake Louise (which you pass on your from Emerald Lake to Banff). We had read that there is an increased chance of spotting wildlife on The Bow Valley Parkway, particularly at dawn or dusk and were hopeful to encounter some wildlife especially a bear sighting. And sure enough, luck was on our side. As we drove along, we spotted a black bear from the safety of our car!
Day 3
On our third day, we drove the Icefields Parkway, which connects Banff National Park to Jasper National Park, and stands out as the most scenic drive I’ve ever experienced - even after exploring over 60 countries. While the drive itself is about 3.5 hours (without stops) - we made it about half way, up until the Athabasca Glacier, where the weather turned quickly, and a blizzard forced us to turn around. Along the way, we also visited Bow Lake and Peyto Lake - both of which were worth the slight detours. Pro-tip: the parkway is beautiful but remote. Make sure to fill up on gas before setting off - there are no stations or cell service.
After a full day of driving (or, more accurately, being chauffeured by my husband), we decided to unwind at the hotel pool and spa. By dinner time, whispers of a potential northern lights sighting were in the air, so we downloaded the Aurora app to check our chances. Although odds were slim given the cloudy skies, we couldn’t resist chasing the lights. While ultimately a failed attempt, it was a fun adventure - watching both tourists and locals alike embark on their own northern lights quests.
Day 4
We spent our final full day at Lake Louise, gifted with warm, sunny weather which was optimal for paddling on the lake. Naturally, my father got the royal birthday treatment, seated in the middle of the canoe while my husband and I rowed him around the serene, turquoise waters. We could have easily paddled for hours, but after our allotted time was up, we docked and headed to The Lakeview Lounge at the Fairmont Lake Louise for lunch - the Montreal Style Rotisserie Chicken with Tableside Ceasar Salad is a must-try and big enough to share. Pro-tip: If you’re self-driving, make sure to arrive at Lake Louise early as parking is limited. Alternatively, you could book a reservation at the Fairmont Lake Louise to guarantee parking.
Next, we set out to hike the Lake Agnes Trail to visit the iconic Teahouse (entrance is right by the lake). Thanks to the snow from the day before, the trail was a bit icy and slippery, so lesson learned - wear sturdy hiking shoes! At one point, the ice was so treacherous that we considered turning back, but we mustered up the courage to continue, fully aware that it might result in one of us taking an unplanned dive and incurring a bruise or two. Once we reached the top, it was totally worth it! The historic Lake Agnes Teahouse (dating back to 1901) greeted us with warm refreshments and panoramic views that speak for themselves. We initially had ambitious plans to continue additional trails from Lake Agnes Teahouse - either the Little or Big Beehive - but given the conditions, we decided to pass. Pro-tip: when hiking, I recommend carrying bear spray with you for safety, with most hotels in the area allowing you to rent for free.
Quick Recap & Final Thoughts:
Day 1: Travel from Calgary to Banff
Day 2: Explore downtown Banff, Banff Gondola & Sulphur Mountain, and Surprise Viewpoint
Day 3: Lake Moraine, Emerald Lake, and Bow Valley Parkway for wildlife spotting
Day 4: Icefields Parkway with pitstops at Bow Lake, Peyto Lake, and Athabasca Glacier. Unwind in the late afternoon at hotel spa & pool
Day 5: Lake Louise (including canoeing) and Lake Agnes Trail (+ option to tag on Beehive hike)
Day 6: Travel from Banff to Calgary
If Banff isn’t already on your bucket list, I hope this guide inspires you to add it!
