La Dolce Vita: 6 days in the Amalfi Coast
Sipping Aperol Spritzes, indulging in seafood pastas, swimming in the Mediterranean sea, lounging at beach clubs, and soaking in the coastal beauty of the Italian Riviera
We timed our visit to the Amalfi Coast just before the summer heat rolled in (late May to early June). It’s that sweet spot when the weather is warm enough for sipping Aperol Spritzes, but not so hot that my already temperature-sensitive husband starts melting into a human puddle. Over six days, we split our time between the buzzing island of Capri and the tranquil hilltop town of Ravello—a balance of lively adventure and serene retreat.
If you're daydreaming about your own Italian Riviera escape, here are tips you need to know to make the most of it.
The Amalfi Coast is a collection of vibrant towns, each with its own personality. Picking where to stay comes down to what vibe you’re after:
Capri was our choice for a mix of action and exclusivity. Sure, the island gets busy with tourists during the day, but here’s the secret—most leave on the last ferry around 7PM. When the day-trippers are gone, the island transforms into a peaceful haven, ideal for golden-hour strolls and quiet dinners.
On the flip side, Ravello was all about slowing down. Perched high above the coastline, it offers jaw-dropping views, beautiful gardens, and a sense of calm that’s hard to find elsewhere. Getting to the water requires a bit of effort (15 to 20 minutes by car) but if sipping limoncello by an infinity pool is your speed, Ravello might just be the spot for you.
Pro-tip: for bustling energy, make sure to visit Positano - the Amalfi Coast’s poster child. It’s colorful cliffside and lively streets are unparalleled but with all things popular, expect the crowds. While we skipped staying here this time around, I’ve shared a few must-visit spots below.
Getting to the Amalfi Coast:
Let’s be real - reaching the Amalfi Coast takes effort, but it’s so worth it! We flew into Rome, where we kicked off the trip with a few days of carb-loading on Cacio e Pepe and wandering cobblestone streets. From there, we hopped on a train to Naples and then took a ~45 minute scenic ferry to Capri. Note: public ferries to Capri can get busy, and seating isn’t guaranteed. If you’d prefer a more comfortable ride, consider renting a private boat.
Pro-tip: If you’re heading to one of the other coastal towns such as Sorrento, Positano, Praiano, Ravello, book a private transfer from Naples. Unless you’re a pro at driving narrow, winding roads, skip the car rental. Trust me, we learned this the hard way. Let’s just say that our “adventurous” driving experience ended up with us wedged between two impossibly narrow walls. So save yourself the stress (and potential car repairs) and leave the driving to the locals.
All smiles when vacationing in Amalfi #coastalbliss #casaangelina
Where to Stay:
Whether you’re seeking luxury or a more laid-back experience, the Amalfi Coast offers something for every type of traveler. In fact, your choice of accommodation will likely steer you towards a specific town. Here are my top recommendations:
Capri:
Caesar Augustus Hotel: Perched high in Anacapri, this 5-star luxury hotel offers views of the Bay of Naples and the Amalfi Coast. Its infinity pool provides a front-row seat to the breathtaking scenery, while a serene outdoor wellness area invites you to unwind amidst nature. The hotel also boasts a beautiful garden where they grow their own vegetables, adding fresh, homegrown flavors to your dining experience. Run by a warm and welcoming family, Caesar Augustus feels like a home away from home.
Other hotels to consider: J.K. Capri, La Minerva Capri
Ravello:
Belmond Hotel Caruso: Dating back to the 11th century, the Belmond property is a timeless retreat exuding elegance with its pointed arches, lush gardens, and an infinity pool overlooking the Amalfi Coast. It's the kind of sanctuary where you could easily spend your entire stay without ever feeling the need - or guilt - to venture beyond its ground. True to its reputation, the Belmond delivers an experience that is nothing short of extraordinary.
Villa Barluzzi: once a 12th-century church, Villa Barluzzi has been beautifully restored to transport you back in time with its classic architecture and rich heritage. Each of its six thoughtfully designed rooms features vintage details like ornate furnishings and intricate tilework, and every room offers its own private outdoor space overlooking the Mediterranean; it’s the perfect space to start your mornings with an espresso on the terrace. While ideal for couples, the villa truly shines for groups or families, offering spacious communal areas and the option to rent out the entire property for an exclusive experience.
Other hotels to consider: Hotel Palazzo Avino
Positano:
Positano offers its own set of luxurious options, from cliffside retreats to cozy, intimate stays. While it’s a bit more crowded than some of the other towns, which come with its own challenges, it’s hard to resist the convenience and vibrant views. Il San Pietro, Le Sirenuse, and Hotel Poseidon are all top-notch choices in Positano.
Where to Eat:
With everything from seafood pasta to freshly squeezed lemon juice, it’s hard to go wrong. Here are a few of our standout picks:
La Capannina (Capri): just a short stroll away from the Piazzetta and tucked away from the crowds, this family-run gem is brimming with charm. It's hosted guests like Jackie Kennedy, so you know it's got the celebrity stamp of approval. The menu is packed with local dishes, and their Ravoli alla Caprese and Spaghetti alle Vongole are two must-try classics.
Da Adolfo (Positano): for a no-frills, laid-back beach vibe paired with incredible food in a secluded setting, this iconic spot is a total must. Accessible only by boat (with complimentary pickup and drop-off at the Positano Port), this rustic beach shack offers a perfect escape. Feast on fresh seafood dishes, then kick-back on one of their sunbeds - there’s no need to rush back when you’re in paradise.
La Sponda (Positano): for an elevated dining experience, La Sponda, located in the Le Sirenuse Hotel, offers stunning views of Positano’s colorful cliffside (request to sit outside). The lemon risotto with capers is a must.
Kasai (Praiano): for a less touristy part of the coast, Kasai in Praiano is the spot — the intimate atmosphere here makes you feel like a local. The service? Top-notch. The staff even surprised us with a glass of Prosecco, which was the cherry on top of an already fabulous experience.
Casa Angelina (Praiano): we dined at the more laid-back restaurant at Casa Angelina and even with its casual setting, the outdoor vibe was effortlessly elegant. And I don't say this lightly, but Casa Angelina's Gragnano Spaghetti with Clams (basically a Spaghetti alle Vongole) might just be the best I've ever had. I still dream about it to this date.
Caruso Grill (Ravello): located within the Belmond Hotel, Caruso Grill prides itself on using locally sourced ingredients. Dishes like the Classic Parmigiana (eggplant-based), Spaghetto Caruso (spaghetti with three types of tomatoes), and chestnut flavored ice cream were fan favorites —including for my husband, who’s typically not a fan of eggplant!
Honorary call-out: make sure to grab sunset drinks at Il San Pietro (Positano).
What to Explore:
Soak up the sun at one (or more) of the iconic Amalfi Beach Clubs: Can you truly experience the Amalfi Coast without lounging on a striped deckchair, Spritz in hand? My top picks: La Fontelina in Capri (it’s a 3-day commitment but the views and ambiance make it absolutely worth it) and Treville Beach Club in Positano (next to Da Adolfo, with also complimentary pick-up and drop-offs).
Charter a private boat in Capri: hire a boat to take you around the island’s hidden grottos and snap the perfect shot with the famous Faraglioni Rocks. We went with Ligheia Capri, and they were nothing short of spectacular.
Browse the local boutiques: treat yourself to authentic handmade goods - whether it’s artisanal ceramics or Murano glassware. Don’t forget to also check out the custom leather sandals crafted just for you.
Wander through the coastal towns: Each town along the Amalfi Coast has its own unique allure. Visit the historic Cathedral of Sant’Andrea in Amalfi, and then head to Ravello to swoon over Villa Cimbrone’s gardens.
Embark on a day trip to Pompeii: Make your way to Pompeii for a history lesson and stroll through the ruins left behind by the eruption of Mount Vesuvius.
Quick Recap & Final Thoughts:
We spent six days on the Amalfi Coast, but you could easily stay for longer. A few parting tips: be ready for some steep prices - it’s well worth it but comes with a price tag. Always carry Euros with you, not all places accept cards. When hopping between towns, skip the rental car and opt in for the local bus or ferry, taxi, or even a private transfer instead. Wear comfortable shoes - the Amalfi Coast hills are no joke. Lastly, a gentle reminder to not wait until last minute to book hotels, restaurants, or beach clubs.
